Above Sky & Under Water
Fashion & Tech
2022 was nothing short of an economical turmoil where major world events were taking place with little to no time to breathe. Fashion, however, remains a place where the times are reflected based on how people react to change and the way their reactions translate into their lifestyle. Based on my research I have identified two trends that at first might not have a lot in common but they go hand in hand at close inspection, two escapism future destinations that will occupy people's minds and bodies in 2023: ocean and space.
ABOVE SKY
If we take a closer look at the 1960’s we could maybe recognise the current climate of the world and see how views on life are connected with modern ones. Economic turmoil and major world events of the 1960s pushed the birth of escapism; the global events at the time made people wonder about futuristic possibilities and cosmic exploration.
The climate of the late ’50s throughout the early ’70s with the space race, exploration, technology, and the cultural developments influenced by these events, was a perfect facilitator for a space era that reached its peak in the ’60s influencing everything from fashion to architecture and interior design. The fashion of the time reflected the space age taking inspiration from space exploration as well as influential pop culture of the time such as movies like Barbella, Star Trek or Kubrick’s masterpiece, 2001 A Space Odyssey. Designers such as Pierre Cardin, Courrèges, and Paco Rabanne were one of the most influential contributors to this trend.
In the year 2000, when technology innovation was skyrocketing, the y2k scare started gaining popularity driven by a fear of technology taking over. Blues and metallics could be seen everywhere from runways to models. Movies such as the Matrix-inspired the youth to take a more rebellious approach involving machinery, reflected through either a full hacker chic aesthetic, having a full leather outfit and dark sunglasses or a steampunk look which consisted of a futuristic take on elements of the past.
Today, the resurgence of the space-age takes a darker twist. While some of us are fighting to find sustainable alternatives to living in peace with nature and mother earth, others are fighting to find more sustainable alternatives on other planets. This trend can be seen rising with the interest in space travel, which is becoming a very real possibility in the near future, where rocket hotels will open their doors to the elite for booking tips to exquisite locations in the cosmos.
As always this trend can already be seen on runways. The cosmos prints that were popular in the early 2010s, seem to make a comeback in Kim Jones 2023 collection finale looks for Dior, as well as the astronaut helmets used as accessories.
Metallics are also going big this year. Starting with silver jewellery having a tribal utilitarian twist, being reminiscent of a modern cyberpunk aesthetic, all the way to hair and make-up embracing old age silver hair, promoted by Julia Fox on her Instagram or futuristic make-up. Kim Kardashian is also leading the trend with her “ Metallic Swim” SKIMS campaign, which features hairstyles and make-up from the 60s’.
Ultimately, much like the y2k scare with technology, we are witnessing the rapid development of the metaverse, digitalisation and surging interest in cryptocurrency. Fashion is not falling behind on this opportunity either. Many brands have already jumped into the field of cutting-edge technology as digital fashion gains popularity in the metaverse. The most recent Maisie Wilen x Yahoo collaboration, inspired by Mattel's Monster High, featured an entirely holographic fashion presentation. Brands are jumping on this trend, trying to come up with new ways of showcasing fashion collections as well as innovating the retail experience. One such example is the Fashion NFT which in the past year has grown in popularity by reinterpreting a brand's trajectory in the digital world and pushing the limits of clothing. Decentraland presented its first-ever Metaverse Fashion Week in March 2022, bringing the runway to the virtual world.
In the past year, Fashion has seen brands breaking the pattern of showcasing their collections in the Fashion Weeks capitals and travelling to more unexpected locations offering their guests an opportunity for escaping reality. In the future, we might even be escaping earth altogether and be taken on a completely new planet.
UNDERWATER
Although it seems counterintuitive, opposite trends not only can coexist but can also attract. If the cosmos has always been a place of fascination and inspiration what better place to look at than under the water? While this trend has significantly smaller traction than the revival of the space age, it has a great opportunity for growth in 2023 as another possible place for escapism. What makes these destinations different from the other locations, is that both the ocean and the cosmos are filled with unexplored mysteries. People are looking for places left untouched by human hands as a way of facing an uncertain future.
The ocean can be a place for refuge in a world of fantasy as shown in the upcoming movie adaptation of Hans Anderson's story, the Little Mermaid. Deep blues, corals and colourful fish can already be seen as visual clues in the trailer for the upcoming movie, set to be released in May 2023. A different take on the ocean is presented by the new Avatar movie, The way of Water. After 13 years of filming, James Cameron came back with a new story, this time focusing on the Metkayina reef people clan that live their life on the shore and in water.
Bluemarine, Spring 2023 fashion show reflects much of that ocean beauty in its garments, featuring deep blue denim, shell bras and draped fabric transforming the models into modern y2k mermaids.
On a deeper level, we can also look at DiPetsa’s brand identity which is surrounded by the mystery and spiritual meaning of water. Her hyperrealistic wet dresses have been seen in music videos as well as on red carpets.
Crystal and charms with aquatic motifs are present in both Dipetsa’s accessories as well as Marine Serres's body ornaments, although, in the latter’s vision, the significance takes a darker twist, from spirituality to survival.
Marine Serres collections are always mind-opening and reflect the state of the world. Through her innovative up-cycling techniques she transports the viewer into an apocalyptic future caused by humans. Her SS21 collection, although from a few seasons ago, forces us to question the consequences of our polluting actions on the waters and ultimately to our planet featuring accessories with shells, fish rings, pearls, driftwood and pieces of aluminium cans.
Even the colours predicted for this year by WGSN and Coloro: Digital Lavender, Tranquil Blue and Sundial Warm Orange seem to be reminiscent of the seaside and the beautiful iridescent pattern found on shells.
The sky and water come together in turbulent times to give people comfort as well as a warning. Where digital advancement becomes more prominent in our lives it can also take us to undiscovered places above the sky and underwater, to places never reached or seen by people before.
